Last updated: 2 January 2005

URGENT FINANCIAL SITUATION FOR BAIRO PITE CLINIC

A

ACCOMMODATION
One of the first questions that volunteers want to know is where can they stay in Timor Leste and how much will cost?

Several years have now passed since the independence vote and the violence which followed. The UN are no longer present in large numbers and tourists are starting to make an appearance. The options for accommodation have improved somewhat since 2001 when I first visited, although really cheap accommodation is still lacking

In the past volunteers have been able to stay close to BPC in Parunas. The house, a 10 minute walk away, is run by Sister Lourdes and operates as a temporary orphanage and women's shelter. For a small charge you get full board and meals including breakfast, lunch and dinner, laundering of clothes and regular room cleaning. The cost is open to negotiation. In 2004 when I stayed room only was $15 a week. In 2001, meals and cleaning came to $50 a week. It is best to pay a week at a time. If the household is in financial difficulties they may ask you for extra money. It is important to remember that Westerners are perceived as being rich with an endless supply of money and desirable goods! In 2004 Mana Betty and Lorenso, both university students were looking after the house. Accommodation here is basis with a single bed, pedestal fan and mosquito net. Traditional squat toilet and mundi. Currently Dr Dan is also living in the house. Mischievous neighbourhood children will keep you well entertained with singing practise, impromptu clinics and assistance with science homework and offer someone apart from sick people to practise your Tetum.

The local Thrifty car rental franchisee provides clean, air-conditioned accommodation for volunteer workers at BPC. Rooms are lockable and come with a small bar-fridge. The accommodation includes a shared toilet, kitchen facilities and television room. The property has 24-hour security. It is located opposite the Dili port on the outskirts of the centre of Dili in Colmera and a 10 minute bicycle ride or 20 minute walk from the Clinic. Cost is currently $30 a week. Sean McIlroy (mobile: 723 1900 timor@rentacar.com.au) is the person to speak with to organise accommodation.

Back Packers 231 in Villa Verde provides rooms at $8 a night with a communal kitchen and air-conditioned room. They also hire out motorbikes. Call 723 8121 for further information. Ville Verde is about 1 km from the clinic. 

Venture Hotel (formerly Paximus) provides discounted accommodation for BPC volunteers staying for more than one month. The hotel has air-conditioning, a TV room, bar service and pool. Rates start at $20 a day including breakfast dropping to $10 a day if staying for three months or more. Telephone 331 3276 or contact Henry Koby on 723 8121 or Sheilla De Caldas on 723 0870.

In the past some people have obtained free accommodation with locals but this cannot be always relied upon.

There are of course alternatives to Clinic accommodation but these can be much more expensive and not as conveniently located. It would pay to speak to someone who has recently visited Dili to talk about the best place to stay. 

Website to check out accommodation  

http://www.timoraid.org/timortoday/html/timor_hotels.htm  (last time I checked this site it was down)

http://www.discoverdili.com/

 

	Cost/night*	From BPC	Telephone	Website
Back Packers 231 Villa Verde	$8		723 8121
Central Hotel The non-Floating Central hotel in the centre of Dili	$30		332 3888	centralhoteltl@yahoo.com
Central Maritime Hotel Avenida Dos Direitos Humanos  P.B. 230 Dili, East Timor Floating hotel in Dili Harbour	$84 - 96	2.5 km	331 1600 725 9696	http://www.southtravels.com/
Dili Guest House 50m south of the Dili stadium	$5	2 km
DTC Holiday Apartments			725 1289
Farol Hotel Rua Governador Serpa Rosa Next to the Indonesian Embassy	$50 single room	1 km	723 4218	farolhotel@yahoo.com
Hotel Audian Rua Quinze de Outubro To the east of Dili	$33 to 50	3 km	332 3080	enquires@hotelaudian.com hotelaudian@mail.timortelecom.tp
Hotel Dili  Rua Dos Direitos Humanos On the beachfront east of the centre of Dili	$	3 km	331 3958	hoteldili@mail.timortelecom.tp hoteldili@arafua.net.au
Hotel Dili 2000 No 2 Rua Martires Da Patria, Babora Closest airconditioned hotel to BPC with glass fronted gym overlooking the main road.	$25 standard	0.5 km	724 4888 321 667	dili2000@singnet.com.sg
Hotel Dili 2001 Area Branca, Meti-Aut	$		331 1237	dili2001hotel@yahoo.com.au
Hotel Esplanada Avenida de Portugal (Beach Road) On the beach front west of the centre of Dili, with pool	$100	2 km	331 3088	www.hotelesplanada.com admin@esplandahotel.com
Hotel Timor Rua dos Martires da Patria Upmarket hotel near the centre of Dili	$120 - $200	1.5 km	332 4502	hoteltimor@foriente.minihub.org
JC PAV Community Centre  Near Taibessi Market	$14			cjpav@hotmail.com
Sakura Tower Hotel			331 1136
Sebastiao da Costa Hotel			332 1465 724 1816	enquiries@hotelsebastiao.com
The Purple Cow  White Sands Beach, 10 minutes by taxi, Disco on weekends!!	$15	4 km
Timor Sands Hotel	$30	2 km	332 4879 723 5390
Timor Lodge Ho tel Estrada - Dili Liquila Road	$8	3 km	332 4227  723 0827
Tropical Hotel Av Presidenti Nicoloa Laboto			332 5084
Venture Hotel	$20		331 3276

* Approximate prices in 2004 prices, in US dollars. Some include breakfast; some monthly rates offer considerable savings.

If you found somewhere else to stay not mentioned here let me know.

ALOLA FOUNDATION
Alola Foundation was established in 2001 to raise awareness locally and internationally about the problem of sexual and gender based violence as experienced by the women of East Timor. The Foundation works in direct partnership with indigenous East Timorese women's NGOs and groups promoting the interests of survivors of violence and their families. The name "Alola" derives from the case of a 15 year old East Timorese girl, Juliana dos Santos, who was brutally kidnapped in the violence of September 1999 by a militia leader who still holds her today in Indonesian West Timor. 

The Director of the Alola Foundation, Ms. Kirsty Sword-Gusmao, has been campaigning for the return of Ms. dos Santos, whose childhood nickname is "Alola". Today the Alola Foundation responds to a range of other needs of the women of East Timor. Our work in the areas of education and maternal and child health reflects the Alola Foundation's commitment to boosting the quality of life and living standards of the women of East Timor.

ARRIVING IN DILI
See also TRAVELLING TO DILI

Dili airport remains quite basic! Your walk from your aircraft, there is no covered walkway in case of rain. An umbrella would be a worthwhile investment in the wet season.

The first thing you do is pay the visa fee of $30; remember to bring US dollars. Then it is onto collect your luggage from the single carousel. Carry all fragile items in the plane with you but be aware that only small bags can be carried in the cabin on Air North flights. It is generally a slow process through the airport; allow at least 30 minutes. There is no access to a lavatory before passing through customs, which can make it really uncomfortable if you drank a few cokes or beers on the flight. Especially uncomfortable if you flew on a small Air North aircraft without a toilet.

Carry drinking water with you for your first drink in the country and pack the sunglasses! Dili can be a very hot and glary place. Avoid the taxi drivers and their agents as hopefully you have organised someone from the clinic to pick you up. If you do have to get a taxi, you will be more likely to reach you destination if you mention Dr Dan (see also TAXI below).

ARTE MORIS
Arte Moris is the first ever fine-art school and associated community of artists in the Democratic Republic of Timor Leste. Arte Moris was founded in February 2003 by Swiss artist Luca Gansser, inter-cultural art coordinator Gabriela Gansser and a group of talented East Timorese youths who became the school’s first students of art. The original students have now become a core group of approximately 15 senior students who live and work at Arte Moris. In conjunction with the founders, the seniors share responsibility for the day-to-day running of the school such as teaching junior students, administration and organization responsibilities. Arte Moris now provides daily tuition for over 100 junior students from age 12 upwards who study under the tutelage of Luca Gansser, visiting international artists and senior students.

Arte Moris is housed in the former premises of the National Museum and more recently the UN Hospital on the main road, Comoro. In March 2003, artists donated works to Bairo Pite Clinic for use in the various rooms. 

ATTITUDE
Remember it isn’t the West and things run differently. Don’t go in with the attitude of making the place a centre of efficiency overnight. 

Celeste is the BPC clinic manager. On arrival, please introduce yourself to her. It is customary to bring a small gift either for the staff or something useful for the clinic. For examples a box of chocolates or wall clock, towels or sheets.

Get to know the staff, never bypass Celeste; don’t just consult with the Western staff – they won’t be there forever. Work together on problems and projects – always aim to leave skills behind. Learn from clinic staff – they have been there a long time and have a lot of clinical knowledge to share.

AFAP
Australian Foundation for the Peoples of Asia and the Pacific works to assist the peoples of Asia, the Pacific and Africa by supporting projects that are environmentally and economically sustainable, gender balanced and supportive of the integrity and self-determination of local communities. AFAP is an innovative overseas aid organisation based out of Sydney and making a positive difference to the lives of people throughout Africa, Asia and the Pacific. AFAP is a non-profit, non-religious organisation that was established in Australia in 1968 and incorporated in the state of New South Wales in 1983.

ARMS
Australian Relief & Mercy Services Ltd ARMS is a Christian organisation acting as the mercy ministry arm of Youth With A Mission Australia and uses the international resources of YWAM to provide humanitarian relief and developmental assistance to those in need. ARMS has projects both within Australia and overseas. All the staff of ARMS are full time volunteers who give their services and expertise without charge. Their personal support comes through people who believe in the value of their ministry.

ARMS assisted in the provision of a new ablution block and on going medical aid for a Bairo Pite Clinic.

B

BAIRO PITE CLINIC & DR DAN MURPHY
Bairo Pite Clinic is located in Bairo Pite next to the now abandoned Portuguese helicopter base, it is now much quieter especially early in the morning. The building was used a medical clinic run by the military during the Indonesians days and is now where Doctor Dan Murphy has his practise.

Doctor Dan received his MD from the University of Iowa. He spent 6 years working with Ceasar Chavez at a clinic for farm workers, where he was involved with legislation against pesticide abuse. He has also worked a doctor in Mozambique, another former Portuguese colony, Laos and Nicaragua. Doctor Dan has worked in East Timor since September 1998, although the Indonesians forced him out in early 1999 during the post-independence ballot destruction of the country. He returned in September 1999 and had been steadfastly working since to provide health care through the Bairo Pite Clinic.

Bairo Pite Clinic currently employs 35 Timorese paramedical, nursing and support staff.

Primary health care is a top priority for the Bairo Pite Clinic; upwards of 500 patients are seen each day. Services provided by BPC include:

Dental care: Dental care is limited to extractions by experienced dental technicians but may soon expand to restorative work and training as part of an Australian overseas aid project.

Emergency Room: BPC has a small emergency care room with the ability to do minor wound care, minor surgery, place plaster casts, insert cannula for fluids and do ECGs. X-rays have to be referred to Dili Hospital. An East Timorese nurse is normally in charge of running the Emergency Room, but it is not staffed full-time. The nurse may be able to assist with some minor procedures. In general the knowledge of wound care does not appear to be good. Debridement, cleaning of tissue and suturing are skills that need to be imparted. Equipment can be sterilised, although this is not always done. If in doubt about instruments, sterilise them prior to using them. There is generally a good selection of suture material, suturing equipment and dressings available. BPC currently has about 5 years supply of Hibitane antiseptic solution!

As a word of caution to volunteers, Dr Dan may be happy for you to embark on certain surgical procedures that may be better handled by the surgical team at Dili Hospital. Don't operate outside of your comfort zone; patient care remains a priority.

Mobile Clinics: BPC provides mobile clinics to remote and often-neglected mountainous areas, and receives patients from all over the country. Dr Dan is working to develop a program of health promotion and prevention with links to mountain villages, with the BPC serving as the training site for village health workers. However, more funding is needed to make this program a reality. Dr Dan himself doesn't go on mobile clinic visits hence visiting medical volunteers can use the opportunity not only to see remote areas of Timor Leste but also provide a useful service. 

BPC operates a Landcruiser Troop carrier as an ambulance with a very capable driver. The current focus of attention is villages in the Liquica and Ermera districts. Nursing support is provided by these districts, although a clinic nurse may be taken along for some visits. Of interest, the ambulance is also used to transport people who have died in Dili back to their families around the island. 

Inpatient care: Ten in-patient beds are used primarily for treatment of diseases such as malaria, gastroenteritis, and mild pneumonia. First-world hospital resources such as oxygen, biochemistry, naso-gastric feeding and blood transfusions are not available which means some patients are best referred to Dili Hospital.

Ward rounds start at 8 am daily, including Sundays. Everyone it seems, including patients already seen join in on the round. Ward rounds are a great time to provide and receive education. Nurses check on patients at least once a day taking and recording observations and giving medication. If you have admitted a patient who requires more regular care, then you will have to reinforce the reasons why or consider referring the patient to Dili Hospital, although they may also be overlooked there. On occasions, positive malaria smears have been overlooked on febrile patients until the next morning. Intravenous drips also need to be regularly checked to ensure that patients are not over or under hydrated or the cannula has not tissued. If you check on patients always take the nurse on duty with you to prevent them from thinking that you are taking over care!

A nutritious diet is provided to all inpatients by BPC.  When a patient is admitted it is not unusual to see three or four family members also staying. 

Maternity and neonatal care: Four beds are devoted to maternity services at the clinic, which averages 60 deliveries per month. Bairo Pite Clinic participates in the national midwife training program. The clinic has about six midwives working; they generally operate independently calling on a doctor for emergencies. When this occurs the patient is often stabilised and transferred to the hospital as the clinic cannot perform operative deliveries and blood transfusions. Patients tend to stay only a day or so post-partum. 

Specialised neonatal care (oxygen, biochemistry and intravenous fluids) cannot be provided by BPC and such patients are referred to Dili Hospital.

Medical laboratory: The primary function of the laboratory is to diagnose malaria and tuberculosis through microscopy of thick blood smears and sputum smears respectively. They can also handle basic urine tests using Multistix. There is a coulter counter for blood counts but this is not currently working. 

Negotiations are underway for the clinic to have more comprehensive bedside tests, for example, to screen for HIV. Being able to diagnose malaria from a thick film can be lifesaving; learn from one of the local laboratory technicians how to do this. The more experience you have with malaria the less certain you will be of making the diagnosis! 

Biochemistry and full blood counts need to be referred to Dili hospital. It is currently easier to take the patient rather than the specimen. The UN Hospital provides HIV testing for BPC patients. Microbiological and pathology services are lacking. Dili Hospital has an arrangement whereby some pathology specimens can be studied in Australia.

Outpatients Care: The major work of BPC and Dr Dan are outpatient consultations. Dr Dan sees around 300 patients per day on average and has seen as many as 650 in a single day. He sees and treats all of the health problems of East Timor with everything from congenital heart defects to violent trauma and the ever-present tuberculosis. He has an extensive and up-to-date medical library in East Timor donated by Elsevier Medical Books in Australia and various volunteers.

Medical volunteers are expected to assist with consultations using a translator (generally someone who has expressed an interest in learning medicine) at first then maybe on their own. The consultation is a great opportunity to teach the translator clinical skills. 

Dr Dan will often call the volunteer into his office to see an interesting case, assist with the referral process to Dili Hospital, or even organise overseas treatment for more difficult cases. BPC treats HIV, cancer and provides a referral service for groups such as ROMAC, a Rotary-funded organisation which provides surgery for children who otherwise would not get treatment. 

It is unfortunate that neither Dili nor the UN hospital offer placements for overseas medical students. However, one a priority is learning the names and telephone numbers of the doctors who work in both establishments and utilise them wherever possible. The UN Hospital doesn't treat anyone other than UN personal (mostly) and speaking with the local surgeon's at Dili Hospital makes getting through their triage process so much easier.

Pharmacy: Next to the laboratory is the pharmacy which is air-conditioned. Medication is supplied from the Central Pharmacy by the Health Department at least in theory. Often orders are only half-filled or  medication requested not received. Other medication makes it way to BPC via visitors, although this had been a problem of late with Customs becoming very strict on what they allow into the country.

Dr Dan tries to provide every patient with some medication even if it is just paracetamol, aspirin or a few multivitamin tablets. His prescriptions are written on small pieces of paper with the patients´ name, the name of the medication and the dose. The dose is written as:  n times per day X number of pills X number of days.  If you spend just a day in the pharmacy, you can pick up what they do and how they do it easily. A little Tetum is required to explain to a patient the dose. (see Tetum Medical Words)

Training: BPC is involved in health care training for East Timorese health care workers. Doctor Dan has been working with ten Timorese medical students who began their studies in Indonesia. They are unable to return to their former schools in Indonesia to finish their education. Five students have been able to resume studying overseas, and Doctor Dan is assisting the others in their attempts to attend Western medical schools. Nursing students from Lahane, East Timor also rotate through Bairo Pite clinic as part of their training in practical skills.

Tuberculosis treatment and control: There are now more than 1,000 patients registered in the tuberculoses (TB) program, which includes directly observed treatment (DOTS), education, and follow-up care. Medication is supplied by Caritas Norway and the programme works in conjunction with the Health Ministry (Ministério Da Saúde Dili Hospital refers patients to the BPC TB programme.

Ten beds at the clinic are reserved for patients with TB too sick for outpatient treatment or for those coming from distant areas. Twenty additional beds for longer-term TB treatment are located at Kuluhun in a rehabilitation centre run by BPC and Sister Lourdes. Dr Dan visits twice a week. 

TB in its many guises can be seen amongst the sick of Timor Leste; not just pulmonary but gastrointestinal, genitourinary, spinal, miliary, cns and cutaneous disease. Multi-drug tuberculosis remains a therapeutic dilemma in Timor Leste. (Also see Tuberculosis)

Vaccinations: Childhood vaccinations, as part of a wider UN supported programme, are given at the Bairo Pite Clinic twice weekly. Pregnant women receive a booster for tetanus at their first visit.

In addition, the Bairo Pite Clinic operates a kitchen and laundry. The clinic has a water supply system and a power generator to supplement unreliable and expensive local supplies.

Bakhita Centre
St. Bakhita Centre at Eraulo offers the Timor Loro sa’e people, without prejudice, an opportunity for developing skills, experience and services to benefit individuals and their communities. The Bakhita Centre is seen as a place where people can come to share experiences and skills with others. This may involve and include people coming from other countries to share their skills, information and expertise with local and regional people from Timor Loro sa’e. 

The Bakhita Centre Project Bishop Belo's Office at the Diocese of Dili has provided this 4 hectare site to develop a Youth Centre and a permanent home for Leeuwin Care. The land overlooks Dili and the ocean and is well located for it's purpose with good access, a level site and proximity to residential areas. The Centre will be established as a showcase for appropriate and sustainable technologies and will include model tourism facilities for training East Timorese people in tourism related activities. The first stage of the project has been completed. An architect has visited East Timor to survey the site, meet the parties involved and assess local materials and skills. By the end of October, a site Master Plan, indicative budgets and a timeline of priorities will be completed. 

This is a project done in conjunction with Notre Dame University and the Edmund Rice Centre in Perth, WA.

BEER & WINE
Try Sagres, the Portuguese beer, Bintang from Indonesia and Tiger from Singapore. You may want to try the local Buffalo beer, with its mysterious sweetish after-taste. Avoid XXXX and VB but that is just a matter of personal taste. Expect to pay from $1.50 to $8 depending upon where you want to drink. The cheapest was the Dengue bar at the UN barracks (you need to surrender your driver's licence to get in) or one of the other bars around town. 

The local palm wine, tua, can be bought at road side stalls in various qualities from absolutely abysmal to just plain disgusting. I have been told there is a quality product but have yet to try it. For more conventional wines from Portugal or Australia try one of the western-style supermarkets.

BLOOD
Before leaving Dili consider donating a unit of blood to local blood bank. This can be done at Dili hospital Laboratory. They will test for HIV, hepatitis B, C and syphilis beforehand. It will take about an hour out of your time. It is unlikely that the Red Cross in Australia will want your blood for a few months after returning home because of potential exposure to malaria and dengue.

BRIEFING
Please come to Darwin for several days to meet Dr Vicki Beaumont and the team here, to see photographs and generally to prepare yourself for Dili. Dr Vicki only works until 1 pm each day and can spend time with you when you arrive.

Accommodation in Darwin: The Phoenix Motel is less than 5 minutes walk from Dr Vicki's Surgery and costs around AUD $70 per night. There are plenty of other places in the city from backpackers to luxury hotels. The city centre is 10 minutes from the Motel away by taxi, 20 minutes by bus or 30 minutes by push bike.

An alternative is with Luc at Frogs Hollow Backpackers in central Darwin, but be sure to let him know that you are going to travel on to Dili and volunteer at Bairo Pite Clinic to get a special rate. 

Contact details are Frogs Hollow Backpackers Darwin 27 Lindsay Street Darwin NT 0801 
FREE CALL (Booking enquiries only): 1800 06 86 86 (within Australia)
Phone: (08) 8941 2600 
Fax: (08) 8941 0758 
Email: book@frogs-hollow.com.au 
Web: www.frogs-hollow.com.au

BICYCLES
Air North will transport a bicycle to Dili for you as long as it is in a box to protect everyone else's luggage from you greasy chain. There maybe a fee involved so check with them first as strict baggage limits apply. The condition of roads in Dili make a mountain bike more appropriate that a racing bike. When heading out of Dili, anywhere but to the West, the gearing of your average mountain bike will come in very handy!

Riding a pushbike, as with driving in Dili, is hazardous, as drivers do not pay attention to road rules or common courtesies.

Remember you are the smallest thing on the road and some of the military trucks are pretty big. Make sure that you wear a helmet when riding a bike.

A tool kit, puncture kit and spare tubes will be useful. There are a couple of bike shops around Dili. The closest to the clinic is near the entrance to the Portuguese helicopter base. An alternative would be to buy a bike in Dili and maybe even generously leave it with someone when you leave. There are a couple of bike shops open at various times throughout the day close to BPC.

BOOKS
See also LINKS

Political & Historical Flavour

• A Dirty Little War: an eyewitness account of East Timor's descent into hell, 1997-2000. John Martinkus. Random House Australia, Sydney, 2001. ISBN: 174051016.

• A Woman of Independence. Kirsty Sword Gusmão. Macmillan Australia. November 2003.

• Bitter Dawn. East Timor: A People's Story. Irena Cristalis. Zed Books; (2002) ISBN: 1842771442

• Bitter Flowers, Sweet Flowers Richard Tanter, Mark Selden, Stephen R. Shalom. Rowman & Littlefield Publishing, 2001. ISBN: 0742509680.

• Buibere: Voice of East Timorese Women compiled by Rebecca Winters. East Timor International Support Centre, Australia. 1999

• Diplomatic Deceits: Government, Media and East Timor Tiffen R. ISBN 086840571X, UNSW PRESS, March 2001

• East Timor Testimony. Photographs by Elaine Briere with essays by Noam Chomsky, Charles Scheiner and others. Between the Lines (Canada) 2004

• East Timor: A Rough Passage to Independence. James Dunn. Longueville Press (Australia). 2003.ames Dunn

• East Timor : Nationalism & Colonialis. Jill Joliffe. University of Queensland Press, 1978. ISBN: 0702214809

• East Timor's Unfinished Struggle : Inside the Timorese Resistance. Jardine Matthew, Allan Nairn, Constancio Pinto. South End Press, 1996. ISBN: 0896085414.

• East Timor and the UN : The Case for Intervention. Geoffrey C. Gunn. Red Sea Press, 1997. ISBN: 1569020450

• East Timor : Genocide in Paradise (Real Story Series). Matthew Jardine. 2nd edition. Odonian Press, 1999. ISBN: 1878825224.

• East Timor : The Price of Freedom. John G. Taylor. Zed Books, 2000. ISBN: 1856498417.Fighting 

• East Timor: Too Little Too Late Lansell Taudevin Duffy & Snellgrove, Australia, 1999

• From the Place of the Dead : The Epic Struggles of Bishop Belo of East Timor. Arnold S Kohen. Griffin Trade Paperback, 2001. ISBN: 031226934X.

• Funu: The Unfinished Saga of East Timor Jose Ramos-Horta.Red Sea Press 1987

• Generations of Resistance: East Timor Photographs by Steve Cox; introduction by Peter Carey. Cassell, UK, 1995

• Guns and Ballot Boxes : East Timor's Vote for Independence (Monash Papers on South east Asia, No. 54) by Damien Kingsbury (Editor), Monash Asia Institute Monash Asia Institute. ISBN: 0732611881

• Inside Out East Timor Ross Bird www.rossbirdphotography.com.au Herman Press, Australia. July 1999.

• Peacekeeping in East Timor: The Path to Independence. Michael G. Smith, Moreen Dee, Louisa May Alcott. Lynne Rienner Publishers, 2002. ISBN: 1588261425

• Remembering forgetting Ciaron O’Reilly Otford Press

• Self-Determination in East Timor: The United Nations, the Ballot, and International Intervention Ian Martin Lynne Rienner Publishers, 2001

• Spirit of East Timor: The Life of Martinho da Costa Lopes Rowena Lennox Pluto Press/Zed. 2001

•     Stirrings of Nationalism in East Timor - Fretilin 1974-1978 Dr Helen Hill Otford Press 

• The East Timor Question : The Struggle for Independence from Indonesia Stephen McCloskey, Paul Hainsworth, John Pilger. I B Tauris & Co Ltd, 2000. ISBN: 1860644082.

• The Heaviest Blow -The Catholic Church and the East Timor Issue. Patrick A. Smythe Lit Verlag 2004

• The Road to Freedom: A Collection of Speeches, Pastoral Letters and Articles from 1997-2001 Carlos Filipe Ximenes Belo, SDB  Caritas Australia and the Centre for Peace and Development Studies - East Timor. 2001

• To Resist is to Win: The Autobiography of Xanana Gusmão, with selected letters and speeches. Aurora Books, Australia, 2000.

Bibliography of East Timor by Robert Lawless. Material on East Timor is found in Portuguese, Dutch, French, Indonesia, Tetum, and English. Kevin Sherlock's 1980 A Bibliography of Timor is the most complete bibliography in several languages. The bulk of the historical writing is in Portuguese. Much of the contemporary writing is in English. This bibliography is limited to materials in English. Many of these materials come from Australia; until recently East Timor was ignored by scholars and the popular media in North America. One of the very few balanced accounts of the Indonesian invasion in the academic journals of the U.S.A. was my 1976 article on "The Indonesia Takeover of East Timor," which made the (fortunately!) inaccurate prediction, "It seems doubtful that the world will ever again have an opportunity to closely examine the struggles and sufferings of the Timorese."

For language books see TETUM page.

ETAN East Timor Book reviews

If you have read another book on Timor please let me know 

BUSES
See also TAXIS

In Dili, bright, colourful minibuses called Mikrolets provide a useful alternative to walking if you don't mind being squeezed in with 20 other people. They are cheap (50 cents) and go to a variety of places but seem restricted to the main roads. Getting around on a bus really requires you to have good knowledge of Tetum and your destination to make sure you are travelling in the right direction. Check with someone at the clinic what the current fare is.

Buses are the usual form of public transport out of Dili to other towns in Timor Leste. It may also be possible to negotiate a taxi to drive out of Dili.

C

CARITAS
Caritas Dili is an organization established in 1976 with the name of DELSOS (Delagatus Sosial) and under the Dili Diocesian Social Commission. It was originally an emergency body established to respond to the needs of the victims of civil war, of the Indonesian invasion, famine and continuing political conflict

CASH & CURRENCY
Go to http://www.timoraid.org/timortoday/ for up to date exchange rates.

The US dollar is the official currency of Timor Leste. The cheapest place in Darwin to buy USD is the Darwin mall branch of the Westpac bank. Make sure that you buy good quality notes as well used notes may not be accepted in Timor Leste.

In November 2003, coins where placed into circulation alongside American dollar notes which apparently have been suffering in the tropical climate! The coins minted in Portugal are in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 centavos. The Timorese centavos being equal to an American cent. These are used alongside US coins. 

Credit cards are used in Dili. An ATM machine is situated at the ANZ bank in the middle of town near the Government buildings at Av. Presidente Nicolau Lobato and at the Leader Store, Comoro. Banking Hours are Monday to Friday form 9:30 to 3:30pm. (332 4822 www.anz.com/eastimor) ANZ eftpos facilities located at other major supermarkets, the Lita Store, many of the Hotels, the Australian Embassy and some other businesses in Dili. If you have a non-ANZ bank card eg. Commonwealth Bank card you can access your savings account only and you can not check the balance prior to withdrawing money. 

Travellers cheques may be an alternative, but first consider the charges for buying and exchanging them; they soon look like an expensive option. For safety's sake, only carry small amounts of cash on your person when out and about.

Western Union is located in Dili in Estrada Balide, Colmara (332 1586 or 332 1584) and Bacau (724 0897).

CHANGING MONEY
Change your money with the street vendors who hang around the shops in the centre of Dili. 

If possible, don't change money in the banks in Dili as the street vendors have better rates and provide a much faster and more convenient service. The street vendors also sell phone card (make sure they are not used) and cheap, pirated DVD and CDs of dubious quality.

CHURCH SERVICES
Looking to do something on a Sunday after or before ward rounds? There are many services all over East Timor. It is wonderful to hear all the singing. Three churches are closely situated to Bairo Pit Clinic. These are the Hosanna Protestant Church, Assembly of God (not affiliated with Australian AOG) and the Catholic cathedral that is very well attended. There are both Tetum and English services. Find out from locals what times the various services are held. The English services are well attended by African expatriates, which makes for an overwhelming experience.

Sunday Service times 
Catholic church 7 am
Assembly of God 9 am
Hosannah English service 10 am

Another church ceremony that you may find interesting is conducted outside of Dili, in a place called Tibar (people at the clinic will know where this is). There are some Kenyan PKFs based there. Every Sunday they join some of the locals in the church choir. Apparently, they sing in both Tetum and Kenyan.

CIVPOL
Civilian Police are currently made from police forces around the world. They may be either very helpful or not! More East Timorese are being recruited and trained for police duties and are certainly much more visible these days. The local officers can often be seen directing traffic across busy intersections. 

I did notice a couple of motorcycle cops on my last visit. There has been a crackdown on motorcyclists not wearing suitable crash helmets. 

CLIVE PICKERING'S HANDY HINTS (2003)
Please note I haven't attempted to update this list so some of these people Clive mentions may not be in the country any longer.

Here is a list of people etc that I find helps out heaps here in Dili

NEED HELP? Ok I have attached a little map to help out with things (click to open)... On the map if you look at the top is the Korean Embassy, to the right is the Dili Club ... Now if you have ANY problems the first point of call is to drop in and see a mate called 'Ditch' ... Top guy and the rest of the folks there will look after you. 

Second ... Be sure to catch up with Peta, she is a terrific person and will also go out of her way to help you if there is anything you need and she can also be a reality check for when you need one. Plus she is the best (only) dentist in Timor Ph +670 7233359 email petaleigh@hotmail.com 

ACTIVITIES & SANITY CHECKS 
Another person you must catch up with is Peter Berney from East Timor Trading ph +670 723 0944 hangs out at the Dili Club on Tuesday nights (strongly suggest you go for the trivia night it will make it a lot easier as it really is a who's who affair) plus he also can introduce you to the Dili Hash Hound Harriers on Sunday at 4pm sharp. 

Yet another two people to add to your lifeline on sanity here plus they are great people for a laugh ("Dili Hashers - On! On! - you will understand when you go for a walk/run) is Trevor and Lisa Parris Ph +670 7236476 email: tparris@opc.vic.gov.au 

LOST IN TOWN?
Sean is down at Thrifty (just in case you get lost in town) is also a great contact and can save you a lot of hassles Ph +670 7231900 email timor@rentacar.com.au 

Anyhow once you get here so long as you touch base with the Dili Club, and the Dili Hash Hound Harriers you will literally have met half of Dili's expatriates and the people you need to know.

NETWORKING? 
Also be sure to drop in and see Sharon at the Alola Foundation or Dr Carla +670 7234736 email carladossantos151@yahoo.com 

For small projects that you may encounter where you need under US$1500 to fix something. Touch base with Sophia Cason (Third Secretary) AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY +670 7231655 email sophia.cason@dfat.gov.au 

Another two people that just can help out with stuff is Patricia Delaney (Assoc. Director) Ph +670 7230562 pdelaney@tl.peacecorps.gov and Bill Farmer (Medical Officer) Ph +670 7230561 Bfarmer@tl.peacecorps.gov

And for the ROTARY connection here in Dili touch base with David Boyce Ph +670 7232995 email boycedjs@bigpond.com

SAFETY
If at any time you have safety issues or anything else you can call Terence Giddings (First Secretary and Consul) AUST EMBASSY +670 390 322111 email terence.giddings@dfat.gov.au he is my HOTLINE ie I carry his card with my passport for the CYAF ....cover your ass factor... Plus he is the main dude as they say.

GETTING STARTED
Now when you arrive the best thing is to go to the accommodation that I have marked which is where I am living and catch up with Betty and Alita. They will assist you to get out and about . Ok so for the accommodation with Dr Dan. 

It costs US$75 a month here for accommodation add onto that some money for food. I usually give Betty about US$15 to $20 a week generally as she needs it which she like rather than paying for meals we share. As for Dan, he is never around so you will not notice a thing unless your down at the clinic where he is found. 

GETTING AROUND TIMOR 
Strongly suggest if you are interest in getting around Timor check with Alita or Betty and see if they are available and then catch one of the buses .. Works out to be about US$10 for everyone to get around where as a car will set you back a lot more. 

FINAL NOTES
On a final note ... the last time I was here I went home wishing never to eat a damm steak ... this time I will be glad to see the last of any form of rice!!!!! give me a break guys ... 3 times a day for 5 months ... you could have warned me!!!!!

CLOTHES
East Timor is a tropical country with a climate not unlike the Top End (keep an eye on the forecast for Darwin). The seasons can be very pleasant; wet season very wet, hot and humid. Having said that it can get quite chilly in the mountains. You may need a range of clothes if you intend to stay for a while and do some travelling. 

The style of dress to be worn at BPC can be best described as neat casual. Jeans, pants or long shorts or skirts are all OK. You can leave the tie at home. Remember, as a volunteer there is an expectation of modest dress, that is, no exposed belly button rings, short skirts or other provocative dress for guys and girls. Remember, you represent your country and profession.

Socially people can be quite snappy dressers. You might get invited to a wedding so its always good to have something ‘just in case’. At the beach, bikinis will attract a lot of attention. Shorts and T-shirts are probably better. Sarongs are only worn by the poorer people of Dili or those from the village mountains. I kept mine for around the house!

COFFEE
From this website find links and news as well as source of Timor coffee. 

Apparently the best coffee East Timor has to offer is Cafe Timor Premium Grade, available form the Airport for USD$6 for 500 grams. Now I'm not going to get into an argument about how much of that $6 goes towards the growers. It does taste very nice. You can buy other coffee in plain plastic bags for a USD $1 which many East Timorese drink. Mixed with lots of sugar and milk. I like mine rich and black - an espresso with a golden crema.

If you are really a coffee freak have a look at The Coffee Review. They describe the Uncommon Grounds brand as 

"The quintessentially smooth, deep, rich Pacific coffee. Grown by peasant small holders and processed by the wet method at centrally located mills. Purchase of coffees like this one assist in rebuilding East Timor, devastated by its recent war of independence from Indonesia. Certified organically grown."

Find out the East Timorese Ministry of Agriculture has on their website about East Timor Coffee and the International Coffee Organisation

COMMISSION FOR RECEPTION, TRUTH AND RECONCILIATION
Welcome to the website of the Commission for Reception, Truth and Reconciliation in East Timor. Our objective is to provide information about the Commission and its work to interested observers and stakeholders, including the East Timorese community in and outside East Timor, governments, donors, media, academics, and the human rights community internationally. Last modified: January 12, 2003.

COMMUNITY AID ABROAD
Since the Indonesian annexation of East Timor in 1975, Oxfam Community Aid Abroad has been active in its support for East Timorese self-determination and working for justice. This support has been through international advocacy and support to partner organisations based in East Timor. Last Updated March 2003

COMPUTERS & INTERNET
Bairo Pit Clinic has an up-to-date Microsoft computer running Windows XP and a CD burner with most applications and a scanner and printer. It was donated by Mike Hartnell. It even has a couple of CD-ROM based education programmes. There are a couple of shops in Dili were you can buy copies of Photoshop etc for $5; not that I would ever condone software piracy.

The clinic also has a digital camera to assist with a telemedicine project.

Power will fail at the worst possible moment so whilst working on the computer save your work regularly. 

You will need to negotiate with Celeste for after-hours access to the computer.

Alternatives are few and far between but there are rumoured to be a couple of Internet Cafes, via certain NGO's and Telstra (although the latter is an expensive option). A laptop computer would be another alternative. You will need to provide your own disks if you wish to save any computer files.

BeerNet is one of the new internet cafes, located at the Clock Tower Roundabout (Av. Almirante Americo Thomas) about 20 minutes from the clinic. Advertised rates are 5 cents a minute. If you buy a beer you get 15 minutes free!

The use of a web-based email account like Yahoo or Hotmail has become expensive as a landline link costs 14 cents a minute. The clinic's telephone bill is at least $200 a month. Therefore it is much cheaper to have a POP3 account such as Telstra's Bigpond or Optusnet downloading email to Outlook Express or Eudora rather than surfing you email provider. 

Bill Gates certainly has a lot to answer for when he put Solitaire in his Windows package; it remains the most used programme in the clinic as well as many government offices I have been told.

D

DEBRIEFING
Carry a pen and spiral notebook with you everywhere you go! 

We suggest that you keep a journal of stories told to you, your experiences and feelings whilst in Timor Leste. This will help you to talk through issues and share your story when you return to Australia. Reverse culture shock can be very real, particularly if you have been away a long time and well immersed in Timorese culture. It seems surreal that within 2 hours you are back in Australia with all its amenities and privileges. You may never be the same again as Dili may well change your perspective on life.

DEPARTURE TAX
There is a USD $10 departure tax to be paid at the airport. Check on arrival to see if the amount of departure tax has risen.

DISCOVER DILI

This regularly updated brochure and website provides a tourists introduction and community information for Timor Leste. From the website

"Timor Leste has truly begun its journey towards the future, out of the ashes of its past, and one of the most resonant statements that we hear over and over again from visitors is how lucky they feel to have come and seen for themselves just how amazing it is.  The simple fact is that you cannot find what is special in Timor Leste anywhere else in the world anymore. Everywhere has been “done”, traveled, marked and in many ways spoiled. The beauty of Timor Leste now is its potential, the real chance that it has for an amazing future, without the bias of negativity found so much elsewhere.  The combination of its history, spectacular scenery - both above and below water, a culture that is remarkably individual and a people that have seen so many changes in such a short time alone makes Timor-Leste a place that will appeal to everyone in many different ways. Isn’t it time you came and saw for yourself?!"  Sean Ferguson-Borrel, Sept. 2004. 

DONATIONS
If you intend to bring donations with you, check what the clinic needs first. Don’t take over rubbish, for example. obscure books, non-compatible or broken equipment etc. You will need a several completed authorisations to import medication and other supplies for the clinic.

Receiving donated medication and other goods is getting more complicated.

There is currently a duty of 10% of the value of all imported goods.

BPC is required to renew the “Registration for Tax Exemption on Import Duty” every six months. The Tax Account Number for Bairo Pite Clinic – 5000131

Only medication listed by the Ministry of Health as an essential medicine may be imported.

A list of all medication and supplies is required before the goods enter the country. This is known as a Bill of Lading and includes either an estimated cost or actual invoiced cost. A proforma can be downloaded from the website.

The completed Bill of Lading accompanied by a letter explaining what the drugs will be used for and other relevant information must be submitted to the Minister of Health.

Once approved and signed by the Minister of Health it must be also authorised by the Minister of Finance.

The final step is approval by the Commissionaire for East Timor Revenue Service

Copies of the completed paperwork must accompany the goods.

Read these documents before bring any medication into Timor Leste. BPC has enough boxes of medication already at the airport and wharf. 

Guidelines for Drug Donations for Timor Leste (pdf document 71 kB)

Essential Medicine Lists for Timor Leste  (pdf document 224 kB)

Customs Declaration Forms (pdf document 62 kB)

As you can see it is a very involved process bring medication into the country so you need to ensure that the medication will be useful. If you are uncertain contact Dr Dan prior to bring anything in. 

Remember you should declare any goods imported into East Timor. In the past people have been able to bring in many useful things for the clinic without doing so but I would never suggest something doing something that might get you into trouble.

DRIVING IN DILI
Although a local driving licence is required, there are few checks. Always carry your local licence or a valid international licence with you. It is essential that you have some comprehensive travel insurance before entering any motorised vehicle in Timor Leste especially if you plan on driving.

Driving in Dili requires a certain sense of adventure and a good eye for the one-way street signs. Roads can be very busy. For Australians it is somewhat refreshing that East Leste drive on the same side of the road as we do! The main road rule is biggest and loudest goes first. Practise your skills with the car horn before leaving Australia! When driving Dili around you will need to be careful of other vehicles (especially the bigger ones), motor bikes, children, pedestrians, pigs, dogs, chickens and outside of Dili the occasional horse, goat or buffalo.

Off the main roads it seems that there is a sense that people so not really appreciate what a speeding car can do to a human body. If you should run over an animal whilst driving and stop, be prepared to negotiate for the price of the animal. For example a pig may cost you up to $50. You'll be surprised how quickly the owner will find out his prized animal has been run over. Also take to heart that a goat or pig can also do a remarkable amount of damage to a modern car!

Although very much scarcer the other major hazards on Dili roads are speeding four-wheel drives like Landrovers, Discoveries and Landcruisers with UN emblazoned on the side. Also watch out for white Hummers flying Portuguese flags with big machine guns mounted on the roof that may not necessarily stick to the left hand side of the road.

It was suggested to me that if you should be involved in a traffic accident and can still drive the vehicle then you should drive immediately to the nearest CIVPOL station and report the accident rather than stay at the scene and be possibly subjected to a mob of angry Timorese.

There are at least three car hire businesses in Dili including Thrifty Rental, whose main office is based in Darwin. If you are staying with Thrifty you may be able to organise a special rate.

Thrifty Car Rental 
PO Box 142
Dili EAST TIMOR
Phone +670 7231900 Fax +670 390 321078
Email timor@rentacar.com.au

Petrol (benzene) or diesel (solar) can be purchased from either a petrol station (like at home) or more cheaply at road-side stalls. Prices are advertised on nearby signs. Fuel from road-side stalls can be dirty and it may be best to pay a bit more for cleaner alternatives from one of a couple of fuel stations such as Phoenix Fuel. Avoid any refilling station with attendants who have lit cigarettes in their mouths!

E

EAST TIMOR ACTION NETWORK
ETAN is a very comprehensive website and support group for all things political in Timor Leste. ETAM supports self determination and justice and supports La'o Hamutuk, the Institute for Reconstruction Monitoring & Analysis. It is run by John M. Miller

You should have a look at this site before visiting Timor.

EATING IN
If staying at Parunas, meals are provided with your board. Breakfast generally comprises of a bread roll, fried egg and coffee. Supplemental vegemite or jam from one pf the western supermarkets in Dili might help. Lunch and Dinner tend to be similar, that is, rice with vegetables or salad and chicken, beef or canned sardines. Vegetarians can be catered for if you let the house-keeper know ahead of time. The meals do tend to be a bit repetitive after a few weeks and you may appreciate the variety available at local restaurants.

If staying at Thrifty you have the use of kitchen facilities to prepare you own food. 

EATING OUT
There are many restaurants and cafes in and around Dili where you can spend from less than AUD $10 for a simple meal to AUD $100 for a feast.

The cheapest eating out places are the local Pandang restaurants where you choose to supplement a bowl of rice with a variety of meat and vegetable dishes. Unlike in Indonesia, the local sambal has a large amount of salt in it which takes a bit of getting used to. The meals generally cost USD$1 for lunch which can be often enough to keep you going to breakfast the next day. 

The more expensive cafes are frequented by UN workers and other expatriates. Expect to pay around US$5 for a meal. They may be a good place to meet people and make useful and potentially invaluable contacts that may help lubricate various bureaucracies.

 "To be honest I never got time to get there so I can't comment on the cost or quality although I did hear that the cakes were very nice at Cafe Blue" 

The hotels offer even more expensive food that makes you think, should you really be eating the equivalent to a weeks board in one night? Expect to pay up to US$15 for a meal.

ELECTRICITY
The electricity in Dili runs on 220/240 volts like Australia. Supply seems to have been improved somewhat since 2001. I still recall that if the power is still at 6:30 pm it is likely to be on all night. If it does go off at around 6 pm if will usually come back on around 9 pm. If you go to bed while the power is off remember to turn off the light switch so you don't get awoken when it comes back on.

Dinner is still served regardless of the power situation as a wood stove is used. Candles, which can be purchased from local shops, come in very handy. A small torch and spare batteries for all your accessories (camera, palmpilots, etc) are essential items.

Local electricity sockets are a mixture of American (with a round earth prong and two vertical prongs), Indonesian (two vertical prongs), Japanese (two round prongs) or Australian (two oblique prongs with or without a vertical earth prong). A universal adaptor would be a good investment.

Power now has to be paid for; and it is not cheap at 30 c per kilowatt. At Parunas, they cannot afford to run the refrigerator. BPC has a staggering outstanding power bill of over $10,000. Dr Dan is hoping to negotiate a better deal. 

ENTERTAINMENT & RELAXATION
See also TOURIST STUFF

To be honest I haven't kept up with the nightlife in Dili. The AMOS, one of the floating hotels which used to have a disco on Friday nights has gone. Discover Dili 2004 lists several nightclubs. Check out AAJs for pool and karaoke; Ata' Uro View for pizza and Tuesday quiz night; Castaway Bar; Ramelau Discothèque with its fitness centre, spa and massage or Sagres Beach for beachfront dinner and live music Friday and Saturday nights.

For sports fans, some of the hotels and bars have big screen television and cable or satellite links to the outside world if you need to watch Australia beat the world in cricket, rugby, tennis or whatever. Soccer is the form of local football. Otherwise there is a fast paced local game of soccer played at the main stadium or a number of pitches around town.

Swimming along the nearby coast is safe, but it is not recommended on beaches close to Dili because of untreated sewage draining into the bay. The beaches improve out east towards Christa Rae (the big statue of Jesus) and beyond with some spots with decent snorkelling over coral bombies. 

A lot of people go running or walking along these beaches, but it would be advisable to go in company.

When walking around Dili be careful of holes that open into drains below the footpaths. It is not a big drop but it would be a very unpleasant experience. The alternative is to walk on the road and then you just have to watch out for the traffic!

There are some local businesses that organise scuba dive trips to local reefs. Check with Coral Divers or Cullen Bay Dive in Darwin before leaving for contact details.

There are some well-frequented tennis courts along one of the main roads close to the centre of Dili.

Get out and about the countryside and mountains as much as you can. There is some pretty good walking outside of Dili.

There is no television or video at Parunas. You will have to remember how to entertain yourself. A couple of novels can be useful! There is a TV and video at the Clinic, which is occasionally used for a film night as well as continuing education.

Meet and interact with Timorese. They are very friendly, especially the children. Teach English as you learn Tetum.

F

FOOD
See also EATING in and out

Meals are influenced by a mixture of Portuguese, Chinese and Indonesian  influences. Remember to eat at least some of what has been offered and to say Kapas Los - "that was delicious!"

Words from the Lonely Planet East Timor Phrase book

G

GOVERNMENT OF EAST TIMOR
THE WORLD’S NEWEST DEMOCRACY. Occupying 24,000 square kilometres on the eastern half of an island in the Timor Sea between Indonesia and Australia, East Timor has a population of approximately 800,000 people. The official web site for the East Timor Government.

H

HEALTH
See also IMMUNISATIONS, INFECTIONS, MALARIA

Pack a comprehensive First Aid kit. Include:

• Antimalarials.
• Bandaids and other simple dressings.
• Thirty-plus Sunscreen (especially if taking doxycycline for malaria prophylaxis to minimise photosensitivity reactions).
• Paracetamol, aspirin or ibuprofen for pain.
• Loperamide or Lomotil and hyoscine for diarrhoea and intestinal cramps
• Metoclopramide or prochlorperazine for nausea and vomiting.
• A couple of broad-spectrum antibiotics like amoxycillin or ciprofloxacin for infection.
• Betadine or another antiseptic as cuts can get quickly infected in the tropics.
• Corticosteroid cream for itchy rashes, sunburn and mosquito bites.
• Sleeping tablets for insomniacs and light sleepers you do get used to roosters crowing at 3 in the morning! Maybe also ear plugs if you aren't keen on the drug or desensitisation option for the crowing.
• Enough regular medications, eg. oral contraceptives to last the visit.
• Don't forget enough DEET based-insect repellent for your visit.

There are two hospitals in Dili.

The Dili National Hospital in Toka Baru, formerly the Red Cross Hospital, is the major hospital in Timor Leste. It provides emergency, surgical, medical, obstetric and paediatric care by a group of dedicated doctors from a variety of countries such as Australia, Holland, Philippines, Indonesia and Nepal. Some doctors, most nursing and support staff are Timorese. It is often a challenge getting through the triage system but it pays to persist. The Hospital runs a daily outpatient service which will take referral from BPC. It is best to get there early to ensure that the patient will be seen. The Hospital uses a hand-held record for noting visits and medical plans. 

Visiting specialists provide services that may not always be available in Timor Leste. The Australian College of Surgeons organises one such outreach programme with an ENT specialist and Ophthalmologist, amongst others, visiting several times a year. This does means a long wait but is still a valuable voluntary service. 

Dr Dan needs lots of encouragement to use these services. Contact Sarmento on 7235791 to get an up to date list of visiting specialists and have patients put on waiting lists.

Hospital staff will see sick expatriates but if life or limb is threatened try to go to the UN Military Hospital (UNMILHOSP, for short). Officially the UNMILHOSP only deals with UN personal but may make exceptions. It is located near the Obrigado Barracks. Previously it was run jointly by the Australian, Egyptian and Singaporean forces and located in an old museum in Comoro. The UN run another hospital in Suai. A View From the Front (opens Adobe Acrobat file) was written by a doctor working in the Comoro Hospital.

The ambulance drivers will generally take people to Dili Hospital.

The Portuguese military hospital at the helicopter base has now gone. 

The Old Portuguese Hospital, a fine old building in the foothills past Becora is still not operational as a medical facility. It is certainly cooler up there but the climb would put most locals off, which is probably why the Portuguese built it there in the first place.

Don't forget your psychological health. Make sure that you make some time to relax after a hard day at the Clinic. Music may help so bring you favourite tapes or CD and something to play them on. If you are a medical student, try to persuade another student to join you in this adventure! It's always much more fun with company, and much safer too.

I

IDENTIFICATION
There is no need to carry identification around with you. But a laminated colour photocopy of the first page of your passport can be useful for identification when visiting official buildings, the Australian Mission or the UNMILHOSP. Keep the original in a safe location. Another alternative is your Australian drivers license.

IMMUNISATIONS
Make sure your immunisations are up to date well before leaving Australia. Take into account the time it takes for your immune system to produce protective titres of antibodies.